soliciting quebec travel information

Last time I asked for Canadian travel advice was 2008 - too long ago! That ended up as 16 days exploring Newfoundland. This trip is more modest, but I am very excited. We haven't had a good holiday in so long.

In 2007, we spent our 20th anniversary at the Hotel de Glace, the Ice Hotel, which was then at the Auberge Duchesnay, about 30 minutes outside of Quebec City. (It's now built in Quebec City itself.) We didn't get to QC on that trip, and I've been talking about going ever since.

2012 marks 25 years of our domestic partnership, a stunning number that deserves a full-on celebration. So "a few days in Quebec City" grew into this: three nights at this B&B in QC, then dogsledding here, dinner and one night at Auberge Duchesnay, then three days in Montreal, staying at Le Petit Hotel. Then, if it's not snowing, we'll drive down to Vermont to visit some friends and family, spend the night there, then drive home.

We've never been in Quebec City, and although we've been to Montreal several times and we love it, we haven't done any real sightseeing there. And for some reason, we've never had a Montreal bagel! Shocking, I know, but we never heard of them until we moved to Canada. We've also only had poutine and smoked meat in Toronto, and of course Montrealers would say that means we've never had poutine or smoked meat. (I'm a New Yorker. I understand completely.)

So this thread is for your recommendations, ideas, must-sees, and musts-to-avoid. We like history, architecture, neighbourhood restaurants, markets (although it's January, so it would have to be an indoor market), bookstores, and general urban exploring. We're driving between cities, but expect to walk and take transit whenever possible. We don't ski, skate or snowboard, but we do like cold weather.

Your turn.

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